Exterior Restoration Painting

   Residential  -  Minneapolis and St. Paul
         Homeowner's Checklist
    for a Lifetime Exterior Paint Job

       Siding and trim are stripped and restored to 
       "like new" condition for less than half the 
       cost of wood replacement.

    Next opening for exterior work is in 2023.


       Part 1    Checklist
       Part 2    About Me
       Part 3    My Procedures             

    Click on any thumbnail image to see the larger image.

Part 1 - Checklist

After the wood has been stripped:  

 All architectural shapes preserved?
 Wood smooth enough? 
 Board edges rounded? 
 Nails set and filled?          
 Wood conditioned with a polymer?
 Problem boards replaced?
 All cracks, seams and joints caulked? 
 Lifetime elastomeric caulk?
 Lifetime coating?
 Four coat process?
 Wood storms and screens restored on all edges?
 Wood storms and screens trimmed for free fit?

Part 3 - About Me
I've specialized in whole house paint removal 
and recoating in Minneapolis and St. Paul since 
I began painting in 1976, with scores of projects 
completed in this manner.

(No openings on my schedule until 2023.)

The procedures described below will ensure the 
longest possible life for your house's exterior.


Part 4 - Procedures

1.  Stripping paint

There are three basic methods used for 
complete stripping of paint from wood:

    1. Electric infrared heat (radiant)
    2. Electric heat guns (convection) 
    3. Chemical stripping

I use electric infrared heat and electric heat
guns for all my paint stripping.  These methods 
do not scorch wood or present any fire hazard, 
as long as all surfaces are caulked prior to 
applying heat.  Absolutely thorough pre-caulking 
is my standard procedure when using convection 
heat guns.

Both types of heat methods strip paint at no more
than 1/2 the cost of chemical stripping.

Pro Prep Scrapers

These scrapers greatly boost heat stripping output.
Keeping them razor sharp is the key.  These 
scrapers will ensure that all moulding elements on 
your house are thoroughly stripped without any 
alteration of their orginal shapes.

2.  Get the wood smooth

It's important to be gentle with the scrapers as wood
is stripped of paint.  I follow up with 80 grit hand 

All board edges (including siding boards) must be 
rounded by hand sanding prior to applying any 
coating, as the paint film is too compromised at 
sharp corners to be trusted.

3.  Set the nails

All nails are set, if possible, then filled with a 
quality filler.  Now your nail heads are well isolated
from moisture which could cause rust and subsequent 
failure of the paint film at that point.

Nails that resist setting are rust primed with a red 
iron oxide primer, then carefully finger wiped with 
a high stretch caulk.

If neither of the above procedures are followed, you 
will have paint film failure at nail heads.  This 
failure will allow moisture into the wood and cause 
further failure to adjacent areas.

4.  Condition the wood, don't just prime it

I use a clear polymer for conditioning wood prior to 
priming.  I've tested clear polymer wood conditioners 
extensively since 1990 and found them to create 
success where oil primers had failed.  They're very
elastic, yet good penetrators, reacting strongly with 
wood fibers for maximum bond and moisture protection.  

5.  Problem boards

Boards with horizontal hairline cracks, as well as 
larger cracks, need to replaced or have clear elastic
caulk troweled into their cracks. 

6.  Caulking

Caulking is another procedure that separates the good 
painters from the best painters.  It requires patience
and adds to the time requirement for a project, thus 
the tendency for otherwise good painters to skimp in
that area.

All joints and seams must be caulked using a 40 year 
or lifetime silicone acrylic caulk.  To topcoat these
high stretch caulks with long term success, one must 
use a highly elastic paint such as Sherwin Williams 
Duration Lifetime Coating.  Polyurethane caulk is used
on architectural joints, such as where fascia or
crown moulding meets at outside corners.

7.  Duration Lifetime Coating

Sherwin Williams' best exterior paints have always 
had the best ingredients in the optimum percentages.
My own testing of Duration in 1997 demonstrated that 
it is in an entirely different league than ordinary 
premium house paint and can easily last a lifetime, 
as it is guaranteed to do.

As sensitive to overbrushing as acrylic paints are, 
Duration is more so and needs to be either sprayed on
or applied by brush by a top notch painter.  It 
must never be applied using the "spray and back 
brush" method.

There is a strong tendency for people to overbrush 
latex coatings and to spread the coating too far.  
The idea is to apply a film of protection on the 
surface, not to just color the surface.  The goal 
is to transfer the acrylic substance from the can 
to the surface in a uniform film with as little 
disturbance of the paint resin as possible.

8.  Four coats everywhere

There should be four coats of film forming product 
everywhere (except well shaded soffits).  This might 
take the form of a conditioning coat followed by two 
coats of acrylic primer, then Duration; or a 
conditioning coat followed by an acrylic primer, 
then two coats of Duration.

Anything less does not adequately seal the surface.  
When moisture penetrates into the wood often, the 
surface wood fibers lose their integrity and the 
film fails at the wood surface, ultimately as the 
result of hydrostatic pressure acting on what has 
become a poor bond.

9.  Wood storms and screens issues

Wood storms and screens that fit too tightly will 
cause rotting of the storm or screen as well as the 
window sill or frame.  I find that I have to trim at
least two edges of almost every storm or screen I 
take off a house.

I also find that many storms and screens need
carpentering to replace bad corners.

All edges need to be sanded, conditioned and painted.

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