E x t e r i o r R e s t o r a t i o n P a i n t i n g
for a Lifetime Exterior Paint Job
Siding and trim are stripped and restored to
"like new" condition for less than half the
cost of wood replacement.
Part 1 Checklist
Part 2 About Me
Part 3 My Procedures
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Part 1 - Checklist
After the wood has been stripped:
All architectural shapes preserved?
Wood smooth enough?
Board edges rounded?
Nails set and filled?
Problem boards treated differently?
All cracks, seams and joints caulked?
Lifetime elastomeric caulk?
Three coat process?
Wood storms and screens restored on all edges?
Wood storms and screens trimmed for free fit?
Part 3 - About Me
I've specialized in whole house paint removal and recoating
in Minneapolis since I began painting in 1976, with scores
of projects completed in this manner.
I also perform all necessary carpentry repairs.
The procedures described below will insure the longest
possible life for your house's exterior.
Part 4 - Procedures
1. Stripping paint
There are three basic methods used for
complete stripping of paint from wood:
1. Electric infrared heat (radiant)
2. Electric heat guns (convection)
3. Chemical stripping
I use electric infrared heat and electric heat guns for all
my paint stripping. These methods do not scorch wood or
present any fire hazard, as long as all surfaces are caulked
prior to applying heat. Absolutely thorough pre-caulking is
my standard procedure when using convection heat guns.
Both types of heat methods strip paint at no more than 1/2 the
cost of chemical stripping.
Pro Prep Scrapers
These scrapers greatly boost heat stripping output. Keeping them
razor sharp is the key. These scrapers will insure that all
moulding elements on your house are thoroughly stripped without
any alteration of their orginal shapes.
2. Get the wood smooth
It's important to be gentle with the scrapers as wood is stripped
of paint. I follow up with 80 grit hand sanding.
All board edges (including siding boards) must be rounded off by
hand sanding prior to applying any coating, as the paint film is
too compromised at sharp corners to be trusted.
3. Set the nails
All nails are set, if possible, then filled with a quality filler.
Now your nail heads are well isolated from moisture which could
cause rust and subsequent failure of the paint film at that point.
Nails that resist setting are rust primed with a red iron
oxide primer, then carefully finger wiped with a high stretch
If neither of the above procedures are followed, you will have
paint film failure at nail heads. This failure will allow moisture
into the wood and cause further failure to adjacent areas.
4. Condition the wood, don't just prime it
I use a clear polymer for conditioning wood prior to priming.
I've tested clear polymer wood conditioners extensively
since 1990 and found them to create success where oil primers had
failed. They're very elastic, yet good penetrators, reacting
strongly with wood fibers for maximum bond and moisture
5. Problem boards
Boards with horizontal hairline cracks as well as larger
cracks need to have clear elastic caulk troweled into their
Caulking is another procedure that separates the good painters
from the best painters. It requires patience and adds to the
time requirement for a project, thus the tendency for
otherwise good painters to skimp in that area.
All joints and seams must be caulked using a 40 year or lifetime
silicone acrylic caulk. To topcoat these high stretch caulks
with long term success, one must use a highly elastic paint such
as Sherwin Williams Duration Lifetime Coating. Polyurethane
caulk is used on architectural joints, such as where fascia or
crown moulding meets at outside corners.
7. Duration Lifetime Coating
Sherwin Williams' best exterior paints have always had the
best ingredients in the optimum percentages. My own testing
of Duration in 1997 demonstrated that it is in an entirely
different league than ordinary premium house paint and can
easily last a lifetime, as it is guaranteed to do.
As sensitive to overbrushing as acrylic paints are,
Duration is more so and needs to be either sprayed on
or applied by brush by a top notch applicator. It must
never be applied using the "spray and back brush" method.
There is a strong tendency for people to overbrush latex
coatings and to spread the coating too far. The idea is
to apply a film of protection on the surface, not to
just color the surface. The goal is to transfer the
acrylic substance from the can to the surface in a
uniform film with as little disturbance of the paint
resin as possible.
8. Three coats everywhere
There should be a minimum of three coats of film forming
product everywhere (except well shaded soffits). This
might take the form of a conditioning coat followed by
two coats of Duration, or a conditioning coat followed by
an acrylic primer, then Duration.
Anything less does not adequately seal the surface.
When moisture penetrates into the wood often, the surface
wood fibers lose their integrity and the film fails at
the wood surface, ultimately as the result of hydrostatic
pressure acting on what has become a poor bond.
9. Wood storms and screens issues
Wood storms and screens that fit too tightly will cause
rotting of the storm or screen as well as the window sill
or frame. I find that I have to trim at least two edges
of almost every storm or screen I take off a house.
I also find that many storms and screens need some
serious carving/conditioning/filling on their bottom edges,
as well as carpentering to replace bad corners.
All edges need to be sanded, conditioned and painted.
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